Sunday, August 23, 2009

KYOTO: TAKAO AREA

08.22.2009 Japanese vending machine product of the day: Suntory Dekavita C. This packaging definitely stands out. Love the heavy brown glass bottle and its shape. The sharp yellow and red labels are eye catching. Fizzy energy drink that tastes like vitamin C. Also contains vitamin B, folic acid niacin, vitamin P, and a little caffeine, too.

Today we took a pilgrimage to the Takao area, a mountaintop section of Northwest Kyoto. It's famous for its trio of mountaintop temples: Jingo-ji, Saimyo-Ji and Kozan-Ji. It's a popular destination for its autumn foliage and springtime cherry blossoms, but the summertime is really lush with greenery. The air is filled with the buzzing of cicadas and croaking of frogs. And it's a cool getaway from the heat and humidity of Central Kyoto. Just under a 50 minute bus ride from Kyoto Station. We stopped at the Makino bus stop, which stops right in front of a restaurant run by a woman and her mother. Neither of them speak English, nor is there an English menu, but we managed to order some zaru soba and braised pumpkin before our hike up the mountain. There aren't many English signs in this area. Exploring Kyoto: On Foot in the Ancient Capital comes in handy again, with English directions and descriptions and the Kanji translation of the names of the temples.

Kiyotaki River The Takaobashi bridge. To the left, the area is crowded with restaurants and inns overlooking the river, open only in the fall.


Jingo-Ji The beginning of many stairs to the top of the mountain to rid ourselves of bad karma. At the top, you can purchase clay disks, called kawarakenage, which you are to toss down the valley, taking all your bad karma with them. This is a Buddhist Temple, founded by Kukai - the founder of Shingon Buddhisim- in 781 A.D.


One of many restaurants closed for the season

Entrance to Jingo-Ji



Bell tower


Main Hall (Kondo) The interior is impressive, painted in a bright vermilion orange red. Houses a healing buddha, Yakushi Nyorai, carved from a single piece of wood. Thought to be brought here over 1200 years ago. It's one of many of Japan's National Treasures stored in Jingo-Ji. During the Golden Week in early May, the treasures are aired for the public.


The clay disks, kawarakenage
The valley where we watched our discs sail to the bottom carrying our bad karma down with them.

prayer wheel

Saimyo-Ji This became another one of our favorite spots in Kyoto. It's a small, fine little temple. Founded in 824 A.D. by Chisen, who was one of the ten disciples of Kukai. Again, the interior of the main building is impressive. In this building there are enshrined Japan's National Treasures: the main statue of this temple, which is Shakanyorai and a statue of Kannon, having 1,000 hands.










A break at Kiyotaki River

Had we known, we would have brought our swimsuits. But this was a nice cold soak for our tired feet after climbing so many stairs.

Kosan-Ji (774 A.D.) The only building extant from this temple complex is Sekisui-in, the hermitage of Abbot Myoe. This location is also know as the birthplace of tea in Japan. Zen Master Yosai had travelled to China, brought back the seeds and presented them to Myoe. Myoe grew the plants here, and worked to popularize tea drinking throughout the country. Today it is still a tea plantation.




Our favorite spot to rest



Scrolls of Frolicking Birds and Animals. Considered by many, the precursor to manga. The scrolls depicts scenes of animals in amusing scenes, analogizing Japanese society of the 12th century. Were thought to be for the priests' amusement.







Downtown Kyoto After a day of temple trekking, we were starving. We had dinner at Omen Nippon. Famous for its ginkaku-ji noodle sets. It's a small, calm place. A nice oasis from all the bustle. We've been many a times to the New York location, as it's one of my favorite Japanese restaurants in the city. The New York Omen is a bit more fancier, but serving much the same, rustic Kyoto-style country cooking.






tiny cute silk figures in storefront window


Saturday, August 22, 2009

KYOTO: THROUGH THE BAMBOO GROVES AND MONKEY TOWN


08.23.2009 Japanese vending machine product of the day: Suntory Boss Short Break. Japanese canned liquid coffee drink. We've seen Tom Lee Jones lending his face to advertise Boss brand coffee drinks.




Today we headed to the Western Hills of Kyoto, near the Hozu River gorge and Arashiyama Mountains.

Bamboo Grove Forest


Tenryu-Ji Temple. Built in 1339 for shogun, Ashikaga Takauji. The landscape was designed by priest, Muso Kokushi, the designer of the moss garden at Saiho-ji, and regarded as one of Japan's great garden designers.

Grouping of seven stones in the Heian-style pond using "borrowed scenery". Tenryu-ji is one of the first gardens and the oldest in existence that uses "borrowed scenery" (shakkei): incorporating distant landscape elements into the design. Here you see the Arashiyama and Kameyama Mountains appear as part of the garden.


Hozu River Gorge

Fuel stop at a corner noodle restaurant

Iwatayama Monkey Park The park is a hike up to Mt. Arashiyama. It is inhabited with over 170 Japanese wild macaque monkeys. There are no fences. The monkeys are free to come and go. You can them feed apples, yams or peanuts at their feeding station, located in a small wooden cabin. There are also great views of Kyoto from here, but the monkeys steal the show. Johnny had some misgivings about going, but once there, it was a lot of fun. One of the baby monkeys toddled towards me and almost climbed up my leg before her mom ran and grabbed her away.

The monkeys seem very friendly, but they are wild animals and can bite and scratch. There are many warnings about staring at the monkeys in the face, because they see that as a challenge. Walking up the steep and narrow path can be a little scary, there's a chance you could trip or fall on a rock or jump from the scream of a monkey.







This guy thought Johnny had food, as Johnny sat to load his film. He actually came up and tapped his paw on Johnny's arm and gave a look of plea. Sorry buddy.


Hoards of Japanese ran up to this taxi car, screaming and gasping. Shooting with camera phones. We thought we were going to encounter a movie star or something, but....

it's the lucky four leaf clover cab!

Other stops in Arashiyama:

Saga Ningyo No Mise The Iura family shop that makes small clay figures. They've been making these small clay figures besides the rice fields in front of the thatched roof poet's hut, Rakushisha, since the late Edo period. The clay figures are miniatures of the Chinese zodiac sign. We bought a tiger for our baby's year. Each little figure comes with its tiny wooden box with its name and the shop's stamp.

Koto-En A pottery shop known for its ceramic tanukis, but it also has an amazing collection of Shigaraki ceramic ware. This is the only Kyoto branch of the Sotoen kilns in Shigaraki, a famous pottery village since the Middle Ages in Japan. It produces beautiful natural glazed stoneware from the reddish clay from the surrounding hillside.

Dinnertime back in our neighborhood in Eastern Kyoto. We wandered around the back canal streets near Furumonzen-dori and came across this restaurant nestled between two other entrances. It's near the corner of a main street in Gion and Yamatooji-dori. Has an English menu. Opens at 6 pm.


Braised pork cheeks with daikon radish

Japanese Wagu beef with balsamic sauce and miso paste

Homemade hot tofu

Tempura pumpkin and eggplant

Rice with Japanese pickles

The chef and owner behind the bar counter of his tiny kitchen




Friday, August 21, 2009

KYOTO:RYOAN-JI ZEN GARDEN



08.24.2009 Japanese Vending Machine Product of the Day: Kirin Chu-Hi. An alcoholic citrus drink that comes in a faceted can. Taste kinda like a greyhound, but much more on a chemical level, artificially sweet.



Ryoan-Ji Zen Garden






Saigen'in Yudofu (bean curd hot pot) restaurant on the Ryoan-ji grounds