TRADITIONAL CRAFTS OF KYOTO

08.18.2009 Kyoto is a city filled with little secrets. Today we explored Central Kyoto for its traditional crafts and family establishments, located in the tiny backstreets. It was a bit of a challenge navigating through the smaller streets, many of the shops were in traditional machiya dwellings, which made it difficult to tell if you were trespassing into someone's home or entering a shop. Here were a few of our favorite stops:

Lunch Unfortunately this cafe we came across doesn't have an English name. It's somewhat near the Nishin Textile Museum. I'll scan the business card in with a map. It had a great set lunch special, one of our favorite meals in Kyoto. Also presented in fantastic ceramics by local artisans. The mugs and dishes aren't photographing well here, but in person, they are quite beautiful.

Aizen Kobo This shop is the house of an old kimono-sash weaving family established over a century ago. Today it is run by the 18th generation of the Utsuki family, specializing in indigo dyeing. The son was very gracious and showed us around. We were privy to an archive collection of beautiful fabrics - Noren curtains, chest covers from the Edo period, antique kimono textiles, shibori fabrics. It was an amazing and priceless collection.

Everything here is hand dyed and hand embroidered. They also make traditional workmen's clothes. He led us out the the back garden, where there were large ceramic pots of indigo stewing. The natural indigo (hon-ai) is in dirt form and is under constant watch as it stews in the pots. There's a little bit of a pungent smell coming out of the vats. The family cat weaved between our legs, who's orange fur had spots of blue from sleeping too near the pots.

Raku Museum is next door to the Raku family house and workshop. It houses a collection of the Raku ceramics of 450 years. 'Raku' was founded by Raku Chojiro in the 16th century, who was inspired to design a tea bowl for tea master, Sen Rikyu. The techniques of hand moulded tea bowls are passed down the generations, but each generation developed their own glazing secrets.

Aritsugu Famous for the finest handmade Japanese knives and all kinds of cookware, pans and other Japanese cooking implements.

Dinner at Kushikura. Yakitori (grilled chicken) and kushiyaki (skewered meats and vegetables). This restaurant is housed in a 100 year old machiya, once the home of a successful Kyoto merchant. We were seated along the long wooden counter to view the charcoal fire and grilling.